July 18 Climbing Fuji-san

Here is beautiful and majestic Fuji-san known to English speakers as Mt Fuji. It is Japan's highest peak. Mt Fuji is an active composite volcano. The above photo was taken in April when my Mom was visiting. The day she and I went was a whole lot prettier than my climbing day!

1:45 A.M. with a smile on my face and a thumbs up even after being regaled with details of horror and unusual punishment on my taxi ride to the bus departure location. When the taxi driver picked me up began his tale of Fuji torture including shredded hiking boots, crashing for 13 hours after the eventful, and not being able to stand when he got out of bed. Thanks for the encouragement pal - nothing like bolstering a fellow adventurer's morale.

As you noticed I had my gator shirt on. I had grand plans for taking a picture at the top sporting my orange and blue - ha ha so much for that thought.

As we were driving up to the 5th station on Mt Fuji I was shocked to see the sky beginning to lighten at 4 A.M.! Of course since I have the curse of not being able to sleep unless laying down, I was awake for the approximately 3 hour drive.

Now let me give you a tidbit of background info. My grandparents built a home in the Appalachian Mountains of North Carolina. Almost every summer growing up, we spent time up there hiking and enjoying the outdoors. I say up there since I was raised in flat Florida. Prior to the climb I thought uh mm I wonder if I will suffer from altitude sickness. It was something that had not occurred to until the safety briefing. Oh naw I will be fine; Hey I have hiked Grandfather Mountain were two of my brilliant thoughts. At least I took the time to look up the altitudes of the two mountains. Grandfather Mountain which for a Florida Girl is a BIG mountain is approx. 5,964 feet and Fuji is approx. 12,388 feet.

Oh my look at the challenge that I had waiting for me!Our climb (please notice my choice of wording CLIMB not hike) was to take place on the North side of Mt Fuji in the Yamanashi prefecture. Fuji is actually located in two different prefectures. Fuji is behind the building hiding behind a cloud that I will learn soon enough was ominous! As we exited the bus most of us donned our rain jackets and pants. I was being hopeful and left the rain pants in my backpack for the moment.The entrance to the trailOh look at this great hike on a nice trail of lava stone and dustAn awesome view from the beginning of the hike.

As I mentioned we arrived at the 5th station to begin our climb. Fuji's 5th station at 7,700 feet had already surpassed Grandfather Mts total height! Looking back at the 5th stationTwo more pictures of hiking Fuji - deceivingly easy looking


This is crazy and wrong and you will understand why as the pictures continue. Yet it is not uncommon for the Japanese to bring along their young children as they climb Fuji-san.

Flashing the standard Japanese picture pose peace sign at the first of many markers.

Most of which didn't help a woman who reads English and struggles with converting the metric system.

The whole experience was breath taking for one reason or another. At the beginning it was the awesome views taking my breath away later it will be the terrain and lack of oxygen.

My Fuji buddy Dawn.

She and I were on the same bus and friendless. I came alone which is what we military spouses have to do a lot but her friend was a no show. She asked if we could hike together - sure sounds like a plan.

Looking up to where we were headed. Little did I know that this is where it all really began......

Climbing Fuji-san

No. 7 station approx 8,858 feet. The weather was getting nastier as we went and as you will see in later pictures I stopped to put on my rain pants:( Not that the rain gear really helped since I was soaked to the bone by the end of the climb! At least at the moment I was dry and thought it was going to help me out.

These men are branding our Fuji sticks.

This was our first stop for getting out Fuji sticks branded. The Japanese call them stamps. Most stations you come to which are really just shanty huts have brands. A different one saying something in Japanese. Plus they usually have the height you made it to and a symbol or picture. A really awesome souvenir and one that helped you accomplish your feat!

Ok this picture shows you why I refer to the day as climbing! As a precaution the day before the climb I cut all my finger nails down. I did not want to deal with one being shredded back to the quick. Looking at this lava rock formation, I was thrilled I had done so. It was a hands, feet and Fuji stick process getting up!

Two random resting Japanese Fuji climbers.

One book I read said that Fuji is the most climbed mountain in the world. Many sites online as well as the book say that 200,000 people climb Fuji a year with 30% being foreigners. I only spoke with two groups of foreigners who both ended up being French. Believe me there wasn't much talking as you continued to ascend the inhospitable Fuji-san.

Looking back down the way we had come.




As you look at these pathways think about ferocious gusts of wind that threaten to end your visit to dear Ms Fuji. I am not kidding at all! At times I found myself crouching down as quickly as I could while tightening all my muscles making myself a smaller tighter target. Even climbing in a crouch at times with my upper body horizontal to the ground feeling safer that way than standing. There was one time in particular when I thought I was heading over the chain and down down down... I have not been able to find a record of how strong the wind is on Fuji but have no fear I will keep looking.

An opening in the clouds allowed for an neat shot down.

I still have not made it very far up the mountain when this picture was taken which you can tell becasue there is still vegetation. Notice the rocks on the huts roof in the far left corner. Every hut/building on the mountain had to have massive rocks on the roof to keep in from blowing away.Yes that is ice on the top right corner of the picture! I was lead to believe that the snow and ice was gone during open season July and August. Not so much on July 18, 2009!This is my Japanese chocolate friend and I at a rest station.

Let me explain: At many of the stations if not all there is a small area to rest (outside) and a vendor usually has snacks for sale in a small hut. The width of these stations can be anywhere from a person and half to 3 people - not large. But as you know Japanese people can pack it in to small spaces. As Dawn and I arrived one of the stations, for the life of me I can't remember which one, this Japanese man offered us chocolate. Of course I will accept chocolate there aren't a lot of woman who will pass up an offer of free chocolate! It was as you can imagine very tasty - strawberry and chocolate combined.

Later at another station I saw he and his buddy again. This time I was taking a quick break to refuel. I offered the two men some trail mix a normal snack for Americans. The version I had with me included banana chips, cranberries, pineapple, papaya, honey roasted peanuts, cashews, coconut and dark chocolate m&ms. I poured some into each mans hands. My chocolate buddy was wowed big time. The grin on his face after eating some of my trail mix was like a little boy getting a special treat at the candy store. It was too awesome to experience. Then in broken English he told me "New never have, ohh so taste good". I of course then took his hands pulled them flat and poured a second helping. His whole face lit up once again - a nice thing to see when the world around me was gray and menacing. We finally introduced ourselves but for the life of me I can't remember his name. Off we went to continue pushing up the mountain in the driving rain, sleet and occasional hail. We did see him again but that part of the story will come later in the posts just don't forget my chocolate friend. Many of you know that my brain never stops churning, the gears just don't stop turning unless I am asleep. So obviously I was thinking the whole time I was hiking. During the easier terrain I was trying to think of what I was going to say on the blog but as the terrain and weather got more difficult and at times down right dreadful my thoughts were far from blogging.

More than once I looked down at my fingers sticking out of my workout gloves like tiny little white popsicles and wondered what the signs of frostbite were. My finger nails were a strange light blue shade a rather nice color if it weren't for the fact it was my finger nails. I realize this means I wasn't getting enough oxygen but did it also show how cold I was? My right hand seem to be curled into a permanent Fuji stick holding grip. Uh mm frostbite? Thankfully no but I did wonder.

I also thought if Rory even considers asking me to go on vacation where it is cold I would say no. Forget skiing or hiking I am thinking tropical islands and the beach. No more cold!!! I was freezing and the ice felt like bee stings all over my face as it came pelting in sideways under my visor. Yeah that visor was packed for the sun by the way as were the sunglasses that were never removed from my pack!

A couple times my thoughts came out as comments to Dawn my climbing buddy. I thought some were appropriate like: "If we did this every weekend we wouldn't have any cellulite on our glutes!" At that point in time my glutes were on fire. Hey I was really having fun! The challenge and muscle burn was right up my alley! Dawn didn't think it was so cute or funny. I think she even made some comment back about how did she end up climbing with a personal trainer! Ok come on personal trainer and climbing a mountain - I don't train mountain climbers.

Showing the rest area of one of the stations. Almost everyone was a walking, scrambling, climbing rain suit with only a little bit of their face showing

Another view of the same stationOh look they were reassuring us we weren't on the Lost Route - how kind.

So what do you think of the view?

I sound crazy but I was having a great time though really the rain/stinging ice could have been missing! There were times that the ice and cold rain felt like cruel and unusual punishment as my muscles burned from the intense workout and my skin and organs screamed from the cold! I am grateful for the rain for one reason - my sinuses. I heard that one lady a blonde ened up with black hair when she was climbing. It took her two days to scrub the lava ash out of her hair and scalp. That would have done a number on my sinuses.

I am sorry to say that as Fuji-san got 'grumpier and grumpier weather wise' I took less pictures. My fear was the rain and sleet/hail would damage the new camera my honey bought me before sailing away. No worries their are plenty more pictures but the quality isn't always there due to rain drops or due to how quick I tried to take the picture.

Still smiling:)-What a once in a lifetime experience! Do you see the stamps on our Fuji sticks?

Fuji-san Summit

As I mentioned early I was having a great time. My face would quickly break into a smile even in the worst of the conditions that is when I was not focused on finding a stable foot and hand hold. This was all until one Japanese man almost ruined it. Dawn had this habit of trying to ask everyone how far we had to go. She even busted out with the are we there yet a couple of times. Anyways one man answer back with a smile only a little bit more to go. I was thinking sweet I will be at the summit eating my ramen feeling like a million bucks for arriving at the top very soon. Obviously my frame of reference for a little bit isn't his which made the last 30minutes tougher than any other part of the trek! After every twist turn and bend, I was expecting to see the grand finale - streamers, confetti, the band you know the whole works (for those of you who don't know I am so teasing) That made it tough. Prior to hearing a little bit I was just thinking one more step, find a spot for one more step, flex those fingers they aren't that cold, wow you are climbing Fuji, etc... The last 30 minutes I was focused on that toddler phrase are we there yet that Dawn had mentioned one too many times. To her credit I think she was kidding and only said it twice.
Earlier in our climbing we had arrived at a Torii gate which really got me excited! I figured there had to be something special about that stop - aside from the shrine. Oh no we were no where near the summit. So the next Torii gate I spotted with less glee than the first but still a glimmer of hope that we were close. When we came to the third Torii gate I didn't even blink much less get excited I was drudging along for a "little bit" to get to the summit. Besides hadn't I learned Torii gates aren't that special.

Standing under the unexciting Torii gate, I took these two pictures looking back at the lion-dogs protecting the entrance. After the quick pictures, we continued up a few more steps and rounded a little corner. It was there that I saw my chocolate friend again in a circle of men all with huge grins are their faces. In the instant of seeing that many Japanese people smiling at once, knowing I had been climbing for a "little bit" too long I went straight to chocolate man and we hugged with massive grins are our faces. I then started over to the closest hut but wait why did I hug chocolate friend? I went back to him and said "are we at the summit?" Of course I had to do some charades and rephrase a couple times before he says "yes top, the top" My only guess is that subconsciously I knew I was at the summit a few seconds prior to consciencely wonder if I had arrived??? I am sure that my chocolate friend found it ironic and funny that we gave each other a celebratory hug then I asked if I was there yet. Hey it was cold and I was tired - no more excuses needed.

July 18th 10:19 a.m.

- after 5 hours and 5 minutes which included, water breaks, bathroom breaks, and stick stamping breaks we had arrived!!!!


Here is the large hut that dominated the man made aspect of the summit. Do you see the band, confetti and streamers? Me either but this was the best looking thing at the moment! It blocked the wind, sheltered me from the rain and offered warm food. Do you see the man in red in the above picture? I would have loved to shout hooray with my hands over my head but I was too tired and cold.

New camera issue the lens fogged up. I am just thrilled that one my camera didn't die because it got water logged like Ingrid's (you will meet her later) nor two did my batter die like Dawn's! You know how I love my pictures those to options would have been awful! a view looking from the back of the hut to the frontHad to show the gator shirt even if it wasn't outside by the crater or ledge.


Boxes upon boxes of supplies lined the wall of the hut - who had to pack this stuff up?


Ah hot ramen.

The best ramen I have had in Japan. It had nothing to do with taste and everything to do with temperature! Once I had stopped climbing my body began to shake horribly! My back muscles were so tense and I was shaking so hard I had a fleeting thought that I may snap my own spine! When I was given my ramen my arms and hands were shaking so violently that I spilled it all over my legs. At first I was disgusted with myself for spilling but within 10 seconds my thoughts changed to aahhh that feels really good- so warm! There was an instant where I thought about pouring my bowl of ramen over my head and letting it warm my body but thankfully that lasted even less than 10 seconds! Some how I shook my way through the ramen and drank my canned coffee. The shaking never did cease before we decided to leave:(The kitchen in the back of the hut

These cauldrons where full of steaming hot water and housed coffee, tea, hot chocolate and the like. This beautiful warm sight greets you as you enter the hut.

Getting our sticks branded with TOP of FUJI!!!!

Go America - whats with our Flag being so little?

Someone needs to hike a larger one up there
All too soon we decided to head out into this...

If the weather had permitted I would have walked around the circumference of the summits crater. Being that is was miserable out to put it kindly and the wind was a ferocious beast I was not walking another 90min around the crater. In all honestly I would more than likely been blown in and I have no intention of missing that plane on August 8.

After stopping at the worst bathroom yet we started our decent at 12:37pm.

Speaking of bathrooms yes there were a few on the mountain. I was pleasantly surprised about their state except for the one on the summit. We used two on the way up. Paying 100 yen you went into a hut that separate left and right. On the woman's side they had western toilets!!! This was a huge shock. Now there is NO water on Fuji so anything aside from bodily wastes was to be place in the waste basket beside the toilet. :( Overall lovely considering where I was. Now the summit bathroom was appalling. Ingrid a lady from our bus who we meet at the summit hut warned us. I guess my brain was too frozen or I thought I understood her warning. I DID NOT but didn't realize it. She said you could see the men. Well in a lot of areas of Japan including the other two bathrooms if you look the opposite way of the woman's as you walk in you may see a man using the restroom. I have learned to keep my eyes focused on heading to the correct side. As I headed into the bathroom I paid the attendant 200 yen this time and almost ran out - not exaggerating. I was taken back because I was literally walking into a line of urinals being used. Since there are no bathrooms on the way down, instead of rushing out I burnt holes in my boots staring at them so hard. I prayed that I would not run into anyone as I memorized the dirt patterns etched into my boots.

Dawn and I had met Ingrid whose friend quit and turned around early on the climb and Chrissy whose three friends quit at least half way up. Once that nasty bathroom experience was over our group of four woman started to descend.

Descending Fuji

This is a picture of my three companions heading down the trail into a swirling mist of cold and fog. It was so delightfully strange and unpleasant to see the wind rushing past. I realize it wasn't the wind but clouds yet it was still fantastic.

As you can tell from this picture our descent was tough due to the lack of visibility. Plus anyone with bad knees, or injured knees will tell you descending is murder compared to ascending! My knees were killing me and I had taken perscription painkillers especially made for joint issues. I continued to do my best at walking side ways down the slope to relieve the pressure from my dear knees. At one point my left knee gave out and I slipped. I had to stop but only for an instant. I was NOT going to be that person who had to descend Fuji on horseback! Looks like the sun is trying to cut through the cold gloom






Oh yes ice and snow. We saw it on the way up but were never this closeDawn, Kim, Chrissy and Ingrid.

These ladies were lovely and made the descent a true pleasure. We chatted about Our Heavenly Father, our Honey's, the Navy etc...

A little side note Chrissy's husband is a conventional (non nuke) mechanic who works with the nukes on the GW. I will have to see if Rory knows him.

Dawn that's nasty!

My thoughts were the truth she said it was pretty bitter.

Yes the snow was mixed with lava ash!



Here comes a bulldozer.

The path down was wide and bulldozed relatively smooth in most areas.

I know that they use bulldozers as rescue machines since there is no where that is safe enough to land a helicopter for an air evacuation. I wonder if they also use them to pack some supplies up to the huts? For rescues they also use horses as I mentioned before which are generally corralled at the 5th station.



Though the path was "smooth" you had to be careful not to slide down the lava stones plus you didn't want to slide off the side -look behind me about waist high.

The ascending route can be see in the distance on the edge of the sloop.

It green wwwaaayy down there!

Still above the clouds

I thought this shot was breathtaking.

Stick to the path and be careful! Do you see the dots on the trail - people just starting to climb Fuji!


A closer view of people just starting what we were thrilled to be finishing!

No your eyes are not deceiving you these are Japanese school children. I heard from our Japanese guide that they climbed up to the 7th station. Remember that one, 8,858 feet approx a two hour hike for an adult. It was after the 7th station that things started to get hairy. Yet still the hike from the 5th to the 7th station was no piece of cake. The little hiking boots were adorable as were the matching hats that said Buddy across the front!I made it!!!!!

We were back at the 5th station around 3:15pm

There is a popular Japanese saying, "Only a fool would never climb Fuji and only a fool would climb her twice". I am currently in the non fool category! Once at the top I would have told you I would do it again IF I was guaranteed sunshine. Now a day later, I will tell you if I had the opportunity to do it again I would! Especially with my husband who would have loved to be with me! It was glorious, horrific, challenging, rewarding, cruel, ferociously cold, amazing...

The pictures and my commentary can't even come close to explaining the emotion and the journey that is climbing Fuji-san!

The good news is I am feeling great today. My legs are sore but nothing unusually so. More like from a killer lower body workout. No blisters, scraps or anything of that nature!

Next once in a lifetime adventure is with you honey!

We have gone skydiving, snorkling at the Great Barrier Reef, Elephant Trekking in the Thai jungle... What are we doing next?